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Publication
Goji berries (Lycium barbarum) as new potential cosmetic ingredient - A first screening
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Abstract(s)
Currently there is a great concern regarding skin appearance amd new skin care products. Although cosmetic products are not commonly associated with serious health problems, potential undesirable effects may occur due to the presence of allergenic ingredientes. Therefore, natural and plant-based ingredientes are emerging as promising active ingredientes with pro-healthy skin effects, attracting the consumer interest. Amomg natural sources, goji berries appear as na interesting source of bioactive compounds due to its richness in phenolics, carotenoids, organic acids, carbohydrates, and vitamins. Its antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activities make goji berries promiding for cosmetic applications. The aim of this study was to develop a cosmetic formulation with na ecological extract obtained from goji berries through ultrasound-assisted extraction. The cell viability studies were performed on skin cell lines, namely keratinocytes, and revealed that doses up to 1000ug/mL were safe. Na ex-vivo permeation assay was performed on human skin during 24 hours, being possible to observe that diferente compounds such as 3,5- dicaffeoylquinic acid, rutin, and isorhamnetin-3-0-neohesperidoside, achieved high skin permeation levels afetr 24 hours, respectively 82.45%, 58.36%, and 37.49%. Afterwards, hydrophilic formulations incorporing goji berries extract were prepared and accelarated stability studies, pH, color, texture and rheology were evaluated. The formulations presented physiochemical properties suitable for skin application and promising stability characteristics. The work allowed to conclude that, in general, the gelled multiple emulsion containing goji berries extract is na auspicious cosmetic producto for skin aging prevention. As future perspective, it is necessary to perform biometric tests on human volunteers to confirm this property and it will be also interesting to carry out stability studies for along period.
Description
Keywords
Goji berries Cosmetics Permeation Cosmetic formulations