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ln Vitro and Ex Vivo permeation studies of Polyphenols: assessing the safety of these ingredients for topical application

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POSTER_Mariana Marques1.pdf1.48 MBAdobe PDF Ver/Abrir
POSTER_Mariana Marques1.pdf1.48 MBAdobe PDF Ver/Abrir

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The study of permeation of natural cosmetic active ingredients is essential to ensure product safety and compliance with European Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 [l]. Phenolic compounds are highly valued in cosmetics for their potent antioxidant properties and their role in supporting extracellular matrix integrity, which contributes to improved skin appearance and function [2]. This work aimed to evaluate the effects of catechin, epicatechin, chlorogenic acid, neochlorogenic acid, and their combination on the viability of keratinocytes (HaCaT) using the MTT assay, after exposure to various concentrations (15.625-500 μg/mL). Moreover, a permeation study using Franz diffusion cells coupled to human skin over a 24-hour period was performed. The compounds permeation was quantified by LC-MS. In terms of cell viability, exposure to lower concentrations (15.625-125μ g/mL) significantly enhanced cell viability. Conversely, the combination of the four compounds resulted in lower overall viability, suggesting potential antagonistic interactions. At the highest tested concentration (500 μg/mL), most compouncls exhibited cytotoxic effects, except for epicatechin, which maintained cell viability at levels comparable to the control. The ex vivo permeation results showed a time-dependent increase in the permeation of all tested phenolic compounds, with the highest concentrations observed at the final time points. Future perspectives of this work include optimizing phenolic compound formulations to enhance skin permeation through encapsulation.

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Permeation studies ln vitro cell studies Regulation (EC) n.0 1223/2009 Green active ingredients

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Marques, M., Teixeira, F., Vieira, M., Sut, S., Acqua, S. D., & Rodrigues, F. (2025). ln Vitro and Ex Vivo permeation studies of Polyphenols: Assessing the safety of these ingredients for topical application. Book of Abstracts of the 7th Meeting on Medicinal Biotechnology - 3rd Iberian Congress on Medicinal Biotechnology, 29.

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