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Abstract(s)
O objetivo deste trabalho é analisar a dinâmica costeira, na zona da Praia de Ofir (Portugal), à luz da teoria da hidrodinâmica, entre maré baixa (baixa-mar) e maré alta (preia-mar). A análise se desenvolve através da comparação destes três métodos: Transformada de Fourier, técnica de Wavelet e Transformada de Hilbert-Huang. Os dados foram coletados a partir de sensores de pressão (PT) e processados no software Matlab, onde foram gerados os espectros dos respectivos métodos, para cada um dos seis PT que foram utilizados durante a coleta de dados da Campanha. Os resultados obtidos mostraram que existe uma inter-relação entre as caraterísticas das ondas e a morfologia do local. Em seguida, em uma segunda parte da análise, utilizou-se filtros que permitiram decompor os sinais das ondas, em espectros com maior nível de detalhes. Assim, possibilitou averiguar, de maneira mais clara, o nível de assimetria presente nas séries de ondas.
The objective of this work is to analyze the behavior of sea waves in the coast of Ofir (Portugal), in the light of hydrodynamic theory, during the high tide. The analysis is developed by comparing these three methods: Fourier transform, Wavelet technique and Hilbert-Huang transform. The data was collected from pressure sensors (PT) and processed in Matlab software, which generated the method’s spectra for each of the six PTs that were used during the data collection in the Campaign. The results indicate an interrelationship between the characteristics of the waves and the morphology of the place. Then, in a second part of the analysis, it was used filters that allowed to decompose the wave signals into spectra in more details. Thus, it was possible to verify, more clearly, the level of asymmetry present in the wave series.
The objective of this work is to analyze the behavior of sea waves in the coast of Ofir (Portugal), in the light of hydrodynamic theory, during the high tide. The analysis is developed by comparing these three methods: Fourier transform, Wavelet technique and Hilbert-Huang transform. The data was collected from pressure sensors (PT) and processed in Matlab software, which generated the method’s spectra for each of the six PTs that were used during the data collection in the Campaign. The results indicate an interrelationship between the characteristics of the waves and the morphology of the place. Then, in a second part of the analysis, it was used filters that allowed to decompose the wave signals into spectra in more details. Thus, it was possible to verify, more clearly, the level of asymmetry present in the wave series.
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Keywords
Hidrodinâmica Ondas marítimas Transformada de Fourier Wavelet e Hilbert-Huang Processamento de sinais Assimetria Hydrodynamic Sea waves Fourier Transform Wavelet and Hilbert-Huang Signal processing MatLab Asymmetry