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Eco-friendly insights on kiwiberry leaves valorization through in-vitro and in-vivo studies

2022Journal article Restricted access
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dc.contributor.authorSilva, Ana Margarida
dc.contributor.authorGarcia, Juliana
dc.contributor.authorDall'Acqua, Stefano
dc.contributor.authorCosta, Paulo
dc.contributor.authorDelerue-Matos, Cristina
dc.contributor.authorRodrigues, Francisca
dc.date.accessioned2023-01-27T11:17:28Z
dc.date.embargo2035
dc.date.issued2022
dc.description.abstractOn the last decade, the demand for novel active skin ingredients based on sustainable principles arise as a trend. These new concerns transformed the consumer preferences, which are not actually solved by the industry portfolio. Regulatory aspects establish guidelines to assess the safety and efficacy of new cosmetic ingredients, being this step imperative to introduce a new ingredient on the market. Our last studies reported the richness of Actinidia arguta (kiwiberry) leaves in bioactive compounds with potential skin applications, but further studies are necessary to validate this extract. Therefore, the current study aimed to screen the hydroalcoholic extract of A. arguta leaves regarding elastase and hyaluronidase inhibition, achieving excellent results (65.62 ± 2.09% and 54.64 ± 4.17%, respectively). The cell viability was assessed in keratinocytes and fibroblasts (0.1–1000 μg/mL), ensuring the absence of cytotoxic effects. Afterwards, 3D models, namely a skin (EpiSkin™) and an ocular (SkinEthic™ HCE, respectively) model, were used to estimate the irritant potential. The viability achieved in both models after exposure to the extract was, respectively, 55.18 ± 10.60% and 101.15 ± 5.96%. The IL-1α released for the skin and ocular models were, respectively, 0 pg/mL and 35.60 ± 2.61 pg/mL, being the extract classified as non-irritant for both models. Lastly, in-vivo studies performed through a patch test in 10 human volunteers proved the absence of allergic or irritative reactions. Overall, the results attained highlighted that the hydroalcoholic kiwiberry leaves extract is an excellent cosmetic ingredient, being not irritant to skin applicationpt_PT
dc.description.sponsorshipThe authors are thankful to Minikiwi Land for the samples and all availability during this work. This work received financial support from project EXPL/BAA-GR/0663/2021 – Kiwi4Health – Exploring the Eco-Innovative Re-Use of Kiwiberry, supported by national funds by FCT/MCTES and by the projects UIDB/50006/2020 and UIDP/50006/2020 through national funds. This work was also financed by national funds from FCT - Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia, I.P., in the scope of the project UIDP/04378/2020 and UIDB/04378/2020 of the Research Unit on Applied Molecular Biosciences - UCIBIO and the project LA/P/0140/2020 of the Associate Laboratory Institute for Health and Bioeconomy - i4HB. Ana Margarida Silva is thankful for the Ph.D. grant (SFRH/BD/144994/2019) financed by POPH-QREN and subsidized by the European Science Foundation and Ministério da Ciência, Tecnologia e Ensino Superior. Juliana Garcia thanks to National Funds through the Portuguese funding agency, FCT – Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia and by Fundação BPI La Caixa, within call POCI-01–0145-FEDER-031309 and project titled “AquaeVitae - Água Termal Como Fonte de Vida e Saúde”. Francisca Rodrigues (CEECIND/01886/2020) is thankful for her contract financed by FCT/MCTES—CEEC Individual Program Contractpt_PT
dc.description.versioninfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersionpt_PT
dc.identifier.doi10.1016/j.indcrop.2022.115090pt_PT
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/10400.22/21940
dc.language.isoengpt_PT
dc.publisherElsevierpt_PT
dc.relationAssociated Laboratory for Green Chemistry - Clean Technologies and Processes
dc.relationAssociated Laboratory for Green Chemistry - Clean Technologies and Processes
dc.relationApplied Molecular Biosciences Unit
dc.relationApplied Molecular Biosciences Unit
dc.relationFrom soil to skin: Eco-friendly extract from kiwiberry leaves for prevention of skin aging process
dc.relation.publisherversionhttps://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0926669022005738?via%3Dihubpt_PT
dc.rights.urihttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/pt_PT
dc.subjectActinidia arguta leavespt_PT
dc.subjectPatch testpt_PT
dc.subjectCosmeticEx-vivo permeationpt_PT
dc.subjectSustainabilitypt_PT
dc.titleEco-friendly insights on kiwiberry leaves valorization through in-vitro and in-vivo studiespt_PT
dc.typejournal article
dspace.entity.typePublication
oaire.awardTitleAssociated Laboratory for Green Chemistry - Clean Technologies and Processes
oaire.awardTitleAssociated Laboratory for Green Chemistry - Clean Technologies and Processes
oaire.awardTitleApplied Molecular Biosciences Unit
oaire.awardTitleApplied Molecular Biosciences Unit
oaire.awardTitleFrom soil to skin: Eco-friendly extract from kiwiberry leaves for prevention of skin aging process
oaire.awardURIinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/6817 - DCRRNI ID/UIDB%2F50006%2F2020/PT
oaire.awardURIinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/6817 - DCRRNI ID/UIDP%2F50006%2F2020/PT
oaire.awardURIinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/6817 - DCRRNI ID/UIDP%2F04378%2F2020/PT
oaire.awardURIinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/6817 - DCRRNI ID/UIDB%2F04378%2F2020/PT
oaire.awardURIinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/POR_NORTE/SFRH%2FBD%2F144994%2F2019/PT
oaire.citation.startPage115090pt_PT
oaire.citation.titleIndustrial Crops and Productspt_PT
oaire.citation.volume184pt_PT
oaire.fundingStream6817 - DCRRNI ID
oaire.fundingStream6817 - DCRRNI ID
oaire.fundingStream6817 - DCRRNI ID
oaire.fundingStream6817 - DCRRNI ID
oaire.fundingStreamPOR_NORTE
person.familyNameSilva
person.familyNameDelerue-Matos
person.familyNamePinto Lisboa Martins Rodrigues Sarmento
person.givenNameAna Margarida
person.givenNameCristina
person.givenNameFrancisca
person.identifier1552042
person.identifier.ciencia-id5C16-8C22-EF1E
person.identifier.ciencia-id9A1A-43FB-5C27
person.identifier.ciencia-id4F19-3D98-2CBA
person.identifier.orcid0000-0002-1823-9816
person.identifier.orcid0000-0002-3924-776X
person.identifier.orcid0000-0001-8803-0041
person.identifier.ridD-4990-2013
person.identifier.scopus-author-id57203495060
person.identifier.scopus-author-id6603741848
project.funder.identifierhttp://doi.org/10.13039/501100001871
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project.funder.nameFundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
project.funder.nameFundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
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project.funder.nameFundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
project.funder.nameFundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
rcaap.rightsclosedAccesspt_PT
rcaap.typearticlept_PT
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