Browsing by Author "Teixeira, Filipa"
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- Development of an in vitro skin cell model and comparison with ex vivo models: the case study of green cosmetic active ingredientsPublication . Marques, Mariana; Teixeira, Filipa; Vieira, Mónica; Rodrigues, Francisca; Vieira, MónicaSkin is the first physical barrier against pathogens and mechanical injuries, and stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin, is the primary barrier to therapeutic delivery. Skin is divided into the epidermis, which consists mainly of keratinocytes and the dermis, composed of fibroblasts, and extracellular matrix components. Skin models are crucial for assessing the safety and efficacy of cosmetic ingredients, especially under European Regulation (CE) No. 1223/2009 that bans animal testing in cosmetics [1]. While commercial skin models approved by the Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) exist, they often lack physiological complexity, limiting their relevance for regulatory compliance [2]. With this work, we aim to develop and characterize a 3D in vitro skin model to evaluate the effect of green cosmetic active ingredients—catechin, epicatechin, chlorogenic acid, and neochlorogenic – due to their antioxidant and anti-aging properties. A keratinocyte (HaCaT)-fibroblast (HDF) coculture and a hydrogel matrix were established to mimic native skin properties, with TEER measurements assessing barrier integrity and MTT assays evaluating cytotoxicity and viability. Permeability studies, performed using Franz cells and HPLC-MS analysis, compared compound penetration in the developed 3D model, ex vivo skin explants, and the commercial EpiSkinTM model. Preliminary results indicate that the developed 3D in vitro skin model successfully supports keratinocyte-fibroblast co-culture, with TEER values suggesting the establishment of a functional barrier. The development of a physiologically relevant 3D in vitro skin model represents a significant step toward improving in vitro testing of green cosmetic active ingredients. This work is an advancement on sustainable and ethical cosmetic testing, bridging the gap between traditional models and human physiology.
- Goji berries (Lycium barbarum) extract as new potential cosmetic ingredient – A first screeningPublication . Silva, Joana; Teixeira, Filipa; Silva, Ana M.; Vieira, Mónica; Amaral, M. Helena; Rodrigues, Francisca; Vieira, MónicaCurrently there is greater concern about appearance and skin care products. Although cosmetic products are not associated with serious health problems, there are concerns related to undesirable effects due to the presence of potentially carcinogenic and allergenic ingredients. Thus, consumers have been increasingly looking for products of natural and plant-based origin. The use of these products is expected to increase exponentially, and studies are urgently needed to introduce new products into the market. Goji berry is a fruit with increasing popularity due to its richness in phenolic compounds, carotenoids, organic acids, carbohydrates, and vitamins. Its antioxidant, antimicrobial and anticancer activities make this product promising for cosmetic applications. The aim of this study was to study an ecological extract obtained from goji berries through ultrasound-assisted extraction as a new ingredient incorporated into a cosmetic formulation. Goji berry extract was obtained by ultrasound-assisted extraction, according to Silva et al. . To assess safety, in vitro assays were carried out on skin cell lines. Subsequently, several cosmetic formulations incorporating the extract were developed and characterized. The results demonstrated that goji berries have no toxicity on skin cell lines. Cosmetic formulations containing the goji berries extract demonstrated to be suitable for application to the skin and maintained their characteristics during the storage period. Goji berries extract is safe and stable in cosmetic formulations, proving to be suitable for consumer needs.
- Insights into the bioactive composition, antioxidant properties and In vitro cell effects of disphyma crassifoliumPublication . Silva, Ana Margarida; Moreira, Manuela M.; Teixeira, Filipa; Delerue-Matos, Cristina; Rodrigues, Francisca; Ferraz, Ricardo; Salazar, MiguelDisphyma crassifolium, commonly known as sea fingers, is a halophyte plant recently introduced in gourmet cuisine. The present study aims to extract the bioactive compounds of D. crassifolium using ultrasound-assisted extraction and employing green solvents (water and ethanol). The antioxidant/antiradical activities, scavenging capacity against reactive species, phenolic profile, and intestinal effects were evaluated. The highest total phenolic (53.13 mg of gallic acid equivalent (GAE)/g on dry weight (dw)) and flavonoid contents (18.98 mg of catechin equivalent (CE)/g dw) as well as antioxidant (149.69 µmol of ferrous sulphate equivalent (FSE)/g dw) and antiradical capacities (9.37 mg of ascorbic acid equivalent (AAE)/g dw) were achieved for the alcoholic extract. Moreover, the alcoholic extract exhibited an efficient uptake of HOCl (IC50 = 1.97 µg/mL) and ROO• (0.34 µmol of Trolox equivalent (TE)/mg dw). A total of 34 phenolic compounds were identified in the extracts, with flavonols (isorhamnetin-3-O-rutinoside, quercetin-3-O-galactoside, and myricetin), flavanols (catechin), and phenolic acids (gallic and ellagic acids) being the principal classes. The intestinal cell viability assays attested that the alcoholic extract presented the lowest IC50 values (289.82 and 35.77 µg/mL for HT29-MTX and Caco-2), showing probable anticancer activity. These results emphasize the potential of D. crassifolium as a nutraceutical ingredient.
- Ultrasound-assisted extraction of bioactive compounds from goji berries: Optimization, bioactivity, and intestinal permeability assessmentPublication . Teixeira, Filipa; Silva, Ana Margarida; Sut, Stefania; Dall’Acqua, Stefano; Ramos, Oscar L.; Ribeiro, Alessandra B.; Ferraz, Ricardo; Delerue-Matos, Cristina; Rodrigues, Franciscavaluable component of health and nutraceutical practices. Nevertheless, a deep insight on the intestinal permeation of the pro-healthy bioactive compounds is urgently needed to predict the real effects on human body. This study attempted, for the first time, to optimize the Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction (UAE) of goji berries using a Response Surface Methodology approach and establish the intestinal permeation of the principal pro-healthy compounds. The optimal extraction conditions were a solid:liquid ratio of 8.75 % for 56.21 min, using an intensity of 59.05 W/m2 . The optimal extract displayed a remarkable antioxidant capacity, with LC/DAD-ESI-MS analysis unveiled a diverse phytochemical profile, encompassing different compounds (e.g. glulycibarbarspermidine F, 2-glu-kukoamine, rutin, 3,5-dicaffeoylquinic acid). The intestinal co-culture model demonstrated that glu-lycibarbarspermidine F (isomer 2) (73.70 %), 3,5-dicaffeoylquinic acid (52.66 %), and isorhamnetin-3-O-rutinoside (49.31 %) traversed the intestinal cell layer, exerting beneficial health-promoting effects.
- Unraveling the nutraceutical potential of Salicornia ramosissima by-product – impact of gastrointestinal digestion and intestinal permeability on in vitro bioactivityPublication . Pinto, Diana; Santos, Inês; Delerue-Matos, Cristina; Teixeira, Filipa; Sut, Stefania; Dall’Acqua, Stefano; Vieira, Mónica; Rodrigues, Francisca; Almeida Vieira, Mónica AndreiaSalicornia ramosissima by-product (SP) is an underexploited antioxidant-rich by-product. This study explored the phytochemical profile, bioaccessibility, and biological activity of SP before and after extraction (SBE and SAE, respectively) upon gastrointestinal simulated digestion and intestinal permeability. The phenolic and flavonoid concentrations increased during digestion, reaching bioaccessibility rates above 95 % for both SBE and SAE. Promising antioxidant/antiradical properties and neuroprotective effects were attested upon digestion. Regarding the phytochemical profile, 17 compounds were identified, including (di)caffeoylquinic acids, gallocatechin, and triterpenoid saponins. The intestinal absorption of bioactive compounds from SAE and SBE intestinal digests was proven through a Caco-2/HT29-MTX cells co-culture model, with 4-caffeoylquinic acid (34.84 %) and 4,5-dicaffeoylquinic acid (26.73 %) reaching the highest permeation rates after 4 h, respectively, for SAE and SBE. These findings support the harnessing of SP as a promising functional and nutraceutical ingredient rich in pro-healthy compounds with proven bioactivity upon in vitro digestion and intestinal permeation.