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Coloração e funcionalização de substratos têxteis com compostos e resíduos naturais
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Resumo(s)
O crescente foco na sustentabilidade e a maior consciencialização ambiental têm impulsionado
a valorização de subprodutos agroindustriais no âmbito da economia circular, bem como o
desenvolvimento de soluções de origem natural que possam substituir os produtos químicos
convencionais utilizados na indústria têxtil. Neste contexto, o hot trub, um subproduto da
indústria cervejeira gerado durante o processo de fabrico da cerveja, surge como uma matériaprima
promissora para a valorização de compostos bioativos, com potencial aplicação no
desenvolvimento de substratos têxteis funcionais.
O presente trabalho teve, portanto, como objetivo a avaliação da aplicação de extratos de hot
trub na funcionalização e coloração de substratos têxteis de natureza distinta, nomeadamente
algodão e seda, de forma a analisar a influência da composição da fibra na incorporação de
compostos bioativos e no desenvolvimento de propriedades funcionais.
Os compostos presentes no hot trub foram extraídos através de um processo de extração
sólido-líquido, recorrendo a diferentes composições de solventes (água, água com 5 % de etanol
e água com 15 % de etanol), bem como diferentes concentrações de biomassa (10 e 20 % de
hot trub) e diferentes temperaturas (30 e 50 ℃). Os extratos obtidos foram caracterizados
quanto ao teor em compostos fenólicos e à atividade antioxidante. Os resultados
demonstraram que as condições de extração influenciam a recuperação de compostos
bioativos, sendo a temperatura de 50 ℃ a mais favorável. Relativamente ao solvente, a solução
água com 15 % de etanol proporcionou a maior recuperação de compostos fenólicos, enquanto
a utilização de água resultou na maior atividade antioxidante. Posteriormente, os extratos
foram aplicados aos substratos têxteis pelo método de exaustão, promovendo o contacto
prolongado entre o extrato e a fibra.
As amostras têxteis foram posteriormente caracterizadas quanto ao teor de compostos
fenólicos, atividade antioxidante, proteção ultravioleta (UV) e diferença de cor, de modo a
avaliar-se a influência dos extratos de hot trub nestes substratos. Os resultados demonstraram
que o hot trub constitui uma fonte promissora de compostos bioativos. No entanto, nas
condições estudadas, a presença e disponibilidade destes compostos nas fibras revelou-se
dependente das condições experimentais, refletindo-se, na maioria dos casos, baixa fração
detetável pelos métodos analíticos utilizados.
A seda apresentou, em termos absolutos, valores superiores de compostos fenólicos e atividade
antioxidante. No entanto, o algodão evidenciou, na maioria das condições, um maior impacto
funcional relativo face aos respetivos controlos nas propriedades de atividade antioxidante e
proteção UV, enquanto os resultados de diferença de cor variaram consoante as condições
experimentais. Estes resultados sugerem que a natureza distinta das fibras condiciona de forma
diferenciada a interação com os compostos extraídos do hot trub, influenciando a sua
disponibilidade e expressão das propriedades funcionais avaliadas.
The growing focus on sustainability and increased environmental awareness have driven the valorization of agroindustrial byproducts within the circular economy, as well as the development of naturally derived solutions that can replace conventional chemicals used in the textile industry. In this context, hot trub, a byproduct of the brewing industry generated during the beer-making process, emerges as a promising raw material for the extraction of bioactive compounds, with potential applications in the development of functional textile substrates. The objective of this study was therefore to evaluate the application of hot trub extracts in the functionalization and dyeing of different types of textile substrates, namely cotton and silk, in order to analyze the influence of fiber composition on the incorporation of bioactive compounds and the development of functional properties. The compounds present in hot trub were extracted via a solid-liquid extraction process, using different solvent compositions (water, water with 5 % ethanol, and water with 15 % ethanol), as well as different biomass concentrations (10 and 20 % hot trub) and different temperatures (30 and 50 ℃). The extracts obtained were characterized for their phenolic compound content and antioxidant activity. The results demonstrated that extraction conditions influence the recovery of bioactive compounds, with a temperature of 50 ℃ being the most favorable. Regarding the solvent, the 15 % ethanol-water solution yielded the highest recovery of phenolic compounds, while the use of water resulted in the highest antioxidant activity. Subsequently, the extracts were applied to the textile substrates using the exhaustion method, promoting prolonged contact between the extract and the fiber. The textile samples were subsequently characterized for phenolic compound content, antioxidant activity, ultraviolet (UV) protection, and color difference, in order to evaluate the influence of hot trub extracts on these substrates. The results demonstrated that hot trub is a promising source of bioactive compounds. However, under the conditions studied, the presence and availability of these compounds in the fibers proved to be dependent on the experimental conditions, resulting, in most cases, in a low detectable fraction using the analytical methods employed. Silk exhibited, in absolute terms, higher levels of phenolic compounds and antioxidant activity. However, cotton showed, under most conditions, a greater relative functional impact compared to the respective controls in terms of antioxidant activity and UV protection, while the results for color difference varied depending on the experimental conditions. These results suggest that the distinct nature of the fibers differentially influences their interaction with the compounds extracted from hot trub, affecting their availability and the expression of the evaluated functional properties.
The growing focus on sustainability and increased environmental awareness have driven the valorization of agroindustrial byproducts within the circular economy, as well as the development of naturally derived solutions that can replace conventional chemicals used in the textile industry. In this context, hot trub, a byproduct of the brewing industry generated during the beer-making process, emerges as a promising raw material for the extraction of bioactive compounds, with potential applications in the development of functional textile substrates. The objective of this study was therefore to evaluate the application of hot trub extracts in the functionalization and dyeing of different types of textile substrates, namely cotton and silk, in order to analyze the influence of fiber composition on the incorporation of bioactive compounds and the development of functional properties. The compounds present in hot trub were extracted via a solid-liquid extraction process, using different solvent compositions (water, water with 5 % ethanol, and water with 15 % ethanol), as well as different biomass concentrations (10 and 20 % hot trub) and different temperatures (30 and 50 ℃). The extracts obtained were characterized for their phenolic compound content and antioxidant activity. The results demonstrated that extraction conditions influence the recovery of bioactive compounds, with a temperature of 50 ℃ being the most favorable. Regarding the solvent, the 15 % ethanol-water solution yielded the highest recovery of phenolic compounds, while the use of water resulted in the highest antioxidant activity. Subsequently, the extracts were applied to the textile substrates using the exhaustion method, promoting prolonged contact between the extract and the fiber. The textile samples were subsequently characterized for phenolic compound content, antioxidant activity, ultraviolet (UV) protection, and color difference, in order to evaluate the influence of hot trub extracts on these substrates. The results demonstrated that hot trub is a promising source of bioactive compounds. However, under the conditions studied, the presence and availability of these compounds in the fibers proved to be dependent on the experimental conditions, resulting, in most cases, in a low detectable fraction using the analytical methods employed. Silk exhibited, in absolute terms, higher levels of phenolic compounds and antioxidant activity. However, cotton showed, under most conditions, a greater relative functional impact compared to the respective controls in terms of antioxidant activity and UV protection, while the results for color difference varied depending on the experimental conditions. These results suggest that the distinct nature of the fibers differentially influences their interaction with the compounds extracted from hot trub, affecting their availability and the expression of the evaluated functional properties.
Descrição
Palavras-chave
Hot trub Bioactive compounds Cotton Silk Functional textiles Sustainability Compostos bioativos Algodão Seda Têxteis funcionais Sustentabilidade