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From soil to cosmetic industry: Validation of a new cosmetic ingredient extracted from chestnut shells

2021Journal article Restricted access
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dc.contributor.authorPinto, Diana
dc.contributor.authorde la Luz Cádiz-Gurrea, María
dc.contributor.authorGarcia, Juliana
dc.contributor.authorSaavedra, Maria José
dc.contributor.authorFreitas, Vitor
dc.contributor.authorCosta, Paulo
dc.contributor.authorSarmento, Bruno
dc.contributor.authorDelerue-Matos, Cristina
dc.contributor.authorRodrigues, Francisca
dc.date.accessioned2021-06-23T12:57:35Z
dc.date.embargo2100
dc.date.issued2021
dc.description.abstractSustainability arises as a challenge in the last decades and the cosmetic field is not an exception. The search for new cosmetic active principles extracted from food byproducts through eco-innovative technologies has emerged as a novel concept. However, the European Regulation is very restrictive and different assays should be performed to guarantee the products' efficacy and safety. Considering a multidisciplinary approach, this paper aims to compare chestnut shell extracts prepared by three different green techniques – Subcritical Water Extraction (SWE), Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction (UAE) and Supercritical Fluids Extraction (SFE) – regarding antimicrobial activity, hyaluronidase and elastase inhibitory activities, in-vitro cytotoxicity on dermal cells (HaCaT and HFF-1) and skin permeation (using Franz cells coupled to human skin). The best extract was tested on skin and ocular 3D models and through an in-vivo patch test to evaluate its irritancy and safety. The results demonstrated the antimicrobial properties of the extracts (particularly against Staphylococcus aureus) as well as the capacity to inhibit the hyaluronidase (IC50 = 0.76–54.36 mg/mL) and elastase (33.56–82.70% at 0.4 mg/mL) activities. Regarding in-vitro cell assays, UAE and SWE extracts revealed the best outcomes. Between 0.1 and 100 μg/mL, none of the extracts conducted to a decrease of cell viability in both cell lines (HaCaT and HFF-1). The ex-vivo assay proved that SWE extract led to a higher polyphenol's permeation (1061.6 μg/g dw), being selected for further assays. Ellagic acid was the major polyphenol that permeated the human skin (732.1–847.0 μg/g dw). The 3D skin and ocular models evidenced absence of irritation by SWE extract, without decreasing cell viability and releasing IL-1α. Finally, an in-vivo patch test confirmed the absence of irritation in humans based on the acute irritation index of 0.50 achieved 24 h after the patch removal. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first study that validated by in-vitro and in-vivo assays, and in accordance with the European Regulation 1223/2009, a new cosmetic ingredient extracted from chestnut shells.pt_PT
dc.description.sponsorshipThe authors' kindly thanks to Sortegel (Sortes, Portugal) for the samples. This research was funded by FCT/MCTES through national funds (UIDB/50006/2020) and project PTDC/ASP-AGR/29277/2017 - Castanea sativa shells as a new source of active ingredients for Functional Food and Cosmetic applications: a sustainable approach, financially supported by national funds by FCT/MCTES and co-supported by Fundo Europeu de Desenvolvimento Regional (FEDER) throughout COMPETE 2020 - Programa Operacional Competitividade e Internacionalização (POCI-01-0145-FEDER-029277). This work was also supported by Project UIDB/04033/2020 (CITAB-Center for the Research and Technology of Agro-Environmental and Biological Sciences). Diana Pinto (SFRH/BD/144534/2019) is grateful for the PhD grant financed by FCT/MCTES and POPH-QREN and supported by funds from UE and Fundo Social Europeu (FSE) through Programa Operacional Regional Norte. Francisca Rodrigues is thankful for her contract (CEECIND/01886/2020) financed by FCT/MCTES—CEEC Individual 2020 Program Contract.pt_PT
dc.description.versioninfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersionpt_PT
dc.identifier.doi10.1016/j.susmat.2021.e00309pt_PT
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/10400.22/18063
dc.language.isoengpt_PT
dc.publisherElsevierpt_PT
dc.relationPOCI-01-0145-FEDER-029277pt_PT
dc.relationAssociated Laboratory for Green Chemistry - Clean Technologies and Processes
dc.relationCastanea sativa shells as a new source of active ingredients for Functional Food and Cosmetic applications: a sustainable approach
dc.relationCastanea sativa shells: An industrial by-product as source of active ingredients for functional foods
dc.relation.publisherversionhttps://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2214993721000646#!pt_PT
dc.subject3D skin and ocular modelspt_PT
dc.subjectEpiskinpt_PT
dc.subjectSkinEthic HCEpt_PT
dc.subjectPatch testpt_PT
dc.subjectAntioxidantspt_PT
dc.titleFrom soil to cosmetic industry: Validation of a new cosmetic ingredient extracted from chestnut shellspt_PT
dc.typejournal article
dspace.entity.typePublication
oaire.awardTitleAssociated Laboratory for Green Chemistry - Clean Technologies and Processes
oaire.awardTitleCastanea sativa shells as a new source of active ingredients for Functional Food and Cosmetic applications: a sustainable approach
oaire.awardTitleCastanea sativa shells: An industrial by-product as source of active ingredients for functional foods
oaire.awardURIinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/6817 - DCRRNI ID/UIDB%2F50006%2F2020/PT
oaire.awardURIinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/9471 - RIDTI/PTDC%2FASP-AGR%2F29277%2F2017/PT
oaire.awardURIinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/POR_NORTE/SFRH%2FBD%2F144534%2F2019/PT
oaire.citation.startPagee00309pt_PT
oaire.citation.titleSustainable Materials and Technologiespt_PT
oaire.fundingStream6817 - DCRRNI ID
oaire.fundingStream9471 - RIDTI
oaire.fundingStreamPOR_NORTE
person.familyNameDelerue-Matos
person.givenNameCristina
person.identifier.ciencia-id9A1A-43FB-5C27
person.identifier.orcid0000-0002-3924-776X
person.identifier.ridD-4990-2013
person.identifier.scopus-author-id6603741848
project.funder.identifierhttp://doi.org/10.13039/501100001871
project.funder.identifierhttp://doi.org/10.13039/501100001871
project.funder.identifierhttp://doi.org/10.13039/501100001871
project.funder.nameFundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
project.funder.nameFundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
project.funder.nameFundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
rcaap.rightsclosedAccesspt_PT
rcaap.typearticlept_PT
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