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- Cyanobacteria for skin care and cosmeceutical formulationsPublication . Melo, Luísa; Morone, Janaína; Silva, Margarida; Ferraz, Ricardo; Martins, RosárioSkin acts as a barrier from external stimulus such as pollutants and ultraviolet radiation. Disturbs in the skin are involved in skin aging, which mostly results on a thinner epidermis, dryness, wrinkles, and loss of elasticity. Synthetic ingredients in cosmetics are known to be more toxic and to cause negative impact on the environment. In a society increasingly worried with human and environment health, natural skin care products gain special attention and boosted the search for natural sources. Due to the production of bioactive compounds, cyanobacteria emerged as an excellent source for cosmetic ingredients. Cyanobacteria strains of CIIMAR culture collection (LEGE-CC) have already proven to be interesting for cosmetic purposes [1,2]. In this project we aimed to evaluate the potential of four LEGE-CC cyanobacteria strains for skin care purposes. The cytotoxicity of acetonic and aqueous extracts was evaluated in keratinocytes (HaCAT), fibroblasts (3T3L1) and endothelial cells (hCMEC/D3) along with the total phenolic content and antioxidant properties. Cytotoxic assays revealed toxicity of acetonic extracts to keratinocytes in the higher concentrations tested. Aqueous extracts revealed low or non-cytotoxicity. Mainly in low concentrations of extracts, cellular proliferation was registered. Aqueous extracts from strain JM/RS021A and acetone extracts from strain JM/RS035B revealed higher values for total phenolic compounds. The acetone extracts of strain JM/RS021A showed the greatest scavenging activity values on the DPPH assay.
- Cosmetic application of cyanobacteria extracts with a sustainable vision to skincare: role in the antioxidant and antiaging processPublication . Morone, Janaína; Lopes, Graciliana; Morais, João; Neves, Jorge; Vasconcelos, Vítor; Martins, RosárioNature-based and sustainably sourced cosmetics have been dominating the area of skincare products worldwide. Due to their antioxidant and antiaging properties, compounds from cyanobacteria, such as carotenoids and phycobiliproteins, may replace synthetic ingredients in cosmetic formulations and may be used in products such as sunscreens, skincare creams, and makeup. In this study, we evaluated the potential of acetonic and aqueous extracts from cyanobacteria strains of the genera Cyanobium and Leptothoe and from strains within Synechococcales and Oscillatori ales orders, for use in cosmetics. Extractions were sequentially performed with acetone and water. Extracts were firstly analyzed for their toxicity to keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and endothelial cells (HaCAT, 3T3L1 and hCMEC/D3, respectively). The non-cytotoxic extracts were characterized in terms of total proteins, carotenoids, chlorophyll, phenols, phycobiliproteins, and analyzed for their antioxidant potential against the superoxide anion radical (O2 •−), and for their ability to inhibit key enzymes associated with the skin aging process. Aqueous extracts were richer in total proteins and phycobiliproteins. The aqueous extracts of Synechococcales cyanobacterium LEGE 181157 and Synechococcales cyanobacterium LEGE 181150 showed the highest value for total proteins (760.81 and 695.25 µg BSA mL−1 dry extract, respectively) and the best values regarding O2 •− scavenging (IC50 = 63.24 and 112.18 µg mL−1 dry extract, respectively) with a significant negative correlation ob served (p < 0.01). Moreover, aqueous extracts of Synechococcales cyanobacterium LEGE 181150 and Synechococcales cyanobacterium LEGE 181157 inhibited hyaluronidase, (IC50 of 483.86 and 645.06 µg mL−1 dry extract, respectively), with a significant negative correlation with total proteins (p < 0.05), pointing out the contribution of these compounds to the biological activities observed. Acetonic extracts were richer in carotenoids and phenols. Zeaxanthin and β-carotene were pre dominant among all strains, being present in higher amount in Cyanobium sp. LEGE 07175 (53.08 µg mg−1 ) and Leptothoe sp. LEGE 181156 (47.89 µg mg−1 ), respectively. The same strains also showed the highest values for collagenase inhibition at 750 µg mL−1 dry extract (32.88 and 36.61%, respectively). Furthermore, Leptothoe sp. LEGE 181156 exhibited the lowest IC50 value for tyrosinase inhibition (465.92 µg mL−1 dry extract) and Synechococcales cyanobacterium LEGE 181157 presented the best values for elastase inhibition (IC50 of 380.50 and IC25 of 51.43 µg mL−1 dry extract). In general, cyanobacteria extracts demonstrated potential for being used for antiaging purposes, with aqueous extracts being more efficient at free radicals scavenging and acetonic ones at avoiding degradation of dermal matrix components.
- Exploitation of filamentous and picoplanktonic cyanobacteria for cosmetic applications: potential to improve skin structure and preserve dermal matrix componentsPublication . Morone, Janaína; Lopes, Graciliana; Preto, Marco; Vasconcelos, Vítor; Martins, RosárioThe use of natural products in skin care formulations gained interest as a concern formodern societies. The undesirable side effects of synthetic compounds, as well as the associatedenvironmental hazards, have driven investigation on photosynthetic organisms as sustainable sourcesof effective and environmentally friendly ingredients. The use of natural extracts in cosmetics hasbeen highlighted and, along with plants and algae, cyanobacteria have come into focus. Due totheir low culture demands, high grow rates and ability to produce a wide variability of bioactivemetabolites, cyanobacteria emerged as an economic and sustainable base for the cosmetic industry.In this study, we evaluated the potential of ethanol extracts of picocyanobacteria strains of the generaCyanobiumandSynechocystis and filamentous strains of the generaNodosilinea,PhormidiumandTychonemafor skin applications, with focus in the field of anti-aging. The extracts were analyzedfor their pigment profile, phenolic content, antioxidant potential, cytotoxicity against keratinocytes(HaCat), fibroblasts (3T3L1), endothelial cells (hCMEC/D3) and capacity to inhibit hyaluronidase(HAase). The total carotenoid content ranged from 118.69 to 383.89μg g−1of dry biomass, and the totalphenolic content from 1.07 to 2.45 mg GAE g−1. Identified carotenoids consisted of zeaxanthin, lutein,canthaxanthin, echinenone andβ-carotene, with zeaxanthin and lutein being the most representative(49.82 and 79.08μg g−1, respectively). The highest antioxidant potential was found forPhormidiumsp.LEGE 05292 andTychonemasp. LEGE 07196 for superoxide anion radical (O2•−) scavenging (IC50of822.70 and 924μg mL−1, respectively). Low or no cytotoxicity were registered. Regarding HAaseinhibition,Tychonemasp. LEGE 07196 andCyanobiumsp. LEGE 07175 showed the best IC50(182.74and 208.36μg mL−1, respectively). In addition, an increase in fibroblast proliferation was registeredwith these same strains. From this work, the ethanol extracts of the speciesTychonemasp. andCyanobiumsp. are particularly interesting for their potential application in anti-aging formulations,once they stimulated fibroblast proliferation and inhibit hyaluronic acid digestion.
- Cyanobacteria in cosmetics: a natural alternative for anti-aging ingredientsPublication . Morone, Janaína; Lopes, Graciliana; Oliveira, Beatriz; Vasconcelos, Vítor; Martins, RosarioBeing exposed to endogenous and exogenous stressors, and being the body’s external defense line, skin protection is of pivotal importance, in order to maintain morphological and physiologic integrity and health. Fostering by individual psychological comfort, esthetic performance, and young appearance, along with motivation for natural products with less side effects and sustainable production, consumer’s demands drive the cosmetic industry into the relentless pursuit for innovation. In this context, cyanobacteria enforce as a promising source of ingredients with cosmetic potential. With the ability to withstand adverse conditions for survival, the adaptation to extreme environments is reflected in the production of compounds with moisturizing, photoprotective, antioxidant, and whitening potential, all attributes required in cosmetics, namely in anti-aging products. In this chapter, we will focus on the interconnection between cyanobacteria and skin, by presenting the main applications of these organisms in skincare products.