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- Vine-Canes as a Source of Value-Added Compounds for Cosmetic FormulationsPublication . Moreira, Manuela M.; Rodrigues, Francisca; Dorosh, Olena; Pinto, Diana; Costa, Paulo C.; Švarc-Gajić, Jaroslava; Delerue-Matos, CristinaThe majority of works about vine-canes are focused on the evaluation of their chemical composition and antioxidant potential. To the best of our knowledge, the possible applications of produced extracts in cosmetic formulations have never been explored. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the antioxidant properties of vine-canes subcritical water extracts for use as active ingredients in the cosmetic industry. For that, the phenolic content and antioxidant activity of six vine-cane varieties, namely Alvarinho and Loureiro from the Minho region and Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz (TR) from both the Douro and Dão regions, were evaluated through spectrophotometric and chromatographic methods. All extracts presented similar antioxidant activity and the highest phenolic content was reported for TR variety from the Douro region (33.7 ± 1.9 mg GAE/g dw). The capacity of vine-cane extracts to capture reactive oxygen species superoxide (O2∙−) was also studied, with the highest IC50 value being obtained for Loureiro variety (56.68 ± 2.60 µg/mL). Furthermore, no adverse effects on HaCaT and HFF-1 dermal cell lines in concentrations below 100 and 1000 μg/mL, respectively, were determined. Finally, Loureiro vine-cane extract was incorporated into a topical formulation, and physical and microbiological properties were within expected values, demonstrating that vine-canes extracts can be successfully incorporated in cosmetic products.
- Evaluation of the Extraction Temperature Influence on Polyphenolic Profiles of Vine-Canes (Vitis vinifera) Subcritical Water ExtractsPublication . Dorosh, Olena; M. Moreira, Manuela; Pinto, Diana; F. Peixoto, Andreia; Freire, Cristina; Costa, Paulo; Rodrigues, Francisca; Delerue-Matos, CristinaThis work focused on evaluating the possibility of using vineyard pruning wastes from two Portuguese Vitis vinifera varieties; Touriga Nacional (TN) and Tinta Roriz (TR), as new potential ingredients for the nutraceutical industry. An environmentally friendly extraction technique; namely subcritical-water extraction (SWE), was employed. The overall results indicate that phenolic acids were the major class of compounds quantified; being gallic acid the principal one. The highest value for total phenolic content (TPC) was obtained for the TR extract at 250 °C (181 ± 12 mg GAE/g dw). In terms of antioxidant activity; the DPPH values for the extracts obtained at 250 °C were approximately 4-fold higher than the ones obtained at 125 °C; with TR extract presenting the highest value (203 ± 22 mg TE/g dw). Thus, the TR extract obtained through SWE at 250 °C was selected to evaluate the scavenging activity and the in vitro effects on cells due to the best results achieved in the previous assays. This extract presented the ability to scavenge reactive oxygen species (O2●-, HOCl and ROO●). No adverse effects were observed in HFF-1 viability after exposure to extract concentrations below 100 μg/mL. This work demonstrated that vine-canes extracts could be a potential ingredient to nutraceutical industry