ISEP - DEC - Comunicações em eventos científicos
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Browsing ISEP - DEC - Comunicações em eventos científicos by Author "Abreu, Tiago"
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- Analysis of Nonlinear Wave Parameters on Ofir Sandy Beach (NW Portugal)Publication . Abreu, Tiago; Silva, Paulo A.; Baptista, Paulo; Pais-Barbosa, Joaquim; Fernández-Fernández, Sandra; Ferreira, Caroline; Matos, JoãoThe characterization of wave transformation processes in the nearshore is of paramount importance when it comes to assessing storm and flooding impacts, sediment transportation and deposition, harbors safety or design of coastal protective structures. This study analyzes nonlinear wave parameters on Ofir sandy beach. This beach is located along the northwest Portuguese coast which is a highly energetic coast exposed to waves generated far away in the Atlantic Ocean. Despite the existence of rocky outcrops in the nearshore and intertidal zones at the study site, reducing the wave energy that reaches the beach, the study site exhibits pronounced erosive processes. Field observations of six near-bottom pressure records collected at the intertidal zone help to characterize the evolution of wave nonlinearities which are directly associated with sediment transport mechanisms. Data results show that there is an interrelation between the characteristics of the waves and the local morphology. It is also possible to ascertain, more clearly, the level of asymmetry present in the waves propagated at different depths, contributing to a better understanding of the local morpho-hydrodynamics.
- Morphodynamics of an Embayed Beach in Majorca IslandPublication . Abreu, Tiago; Parreño-Mas, Benjamín; Pinto-Faria, JoséCala Millor Beach is located in Mallorca Island and is a small sandy beach, embedded in a rocky bay. It remained generally in a state of equilibrium but, in the 60s, the urbanistic area began to develop towards the beach, interfering with the natural sediment transport of the bay. The seabed is covered by native vegetation known as Posidonia Oceanica, playing an important role in the morphodynamic system. This vegetation is responsible for the lamination of the waves through energy dissipation. To characterize the local dynamics, the SMC program (System of Coastal Modelling) is employed to study sediment transport trends and to evaluate morphological evolutions in the short term. The results seem to support the observed problem, resulting from an imbalance of sediment transport due to the drift from north to south. Moreover, the results support the idea that the morphological variations can be significantly attenuated in the presence of Posidonia Oceanica. This is of great importance for coastal management since the influence of the vegetation can be assessed, improving our knowledge on the coastal morphology and enabling to identify ways to protect the beach.